Victoria Day weekend is the #1 planting weekend of the entire year!! Before you get down and dirty in the garden here are some things you need to know!!

1. Check for frost: Depending on where you live and the date Victoria Day falls you need to insure frost has left the forecast before planting tender annuals and vegetables like Tomatoes, Peppers, Impatiens, Begonias and coleus. For last frost dates in Canada go to http://www.almanac.com/content/frost-chart-canada

2. Pick the right plant for the right place: The rose may look pretty but you have shade. Pick plants that work for you garden in terms of light, soil type, hardiness and experience. Instead of a rose for shade pick hardy hosta, astible, or Coral Bells. Always look for plant selections that are disease and insect resistant, have extended bloom periods or all season garden interest.

3. Purchase healthy plants: Healthy plants have deep green leaves free from holes, black spots or yellowing. Plants should also appear sturdy with multiple stems not upright and falling over. Roots should not be growing out of the bottom.

4. Look for buds not blooms: You may be enticed by all the flowers but pick the plant in bud not bloom. Often I take the flowers off when planting..this allows the plant to focus on roots not flowers a sacrifice today for more flowers tomorrow.

5. Use the right soil: Garden soil is too heavy for pots, potting soil is to light for gardens. Choose a soil that is formulated for what you need. ..don’t just by the cheapest or the bag closest to the car. My recommended soil for pots is Nature Mix Container Soil. For Garden Nature Mix Annual and Perennial Mix.

6. Water: Before planting water all plants while in their containers and water deeply immediately after planting. Depending on rainfall and size of container this will determine how often you water but the key to watering is deep infrequent watering. BE A OCCASIONAL SOAKER NOT A FREQUENT SPRINKLER !

HAPPY PLANTING!!

Clear skies, light winds, and temperatures hovering near 0c = a good chance of a killing frost!!

Did you know?
Plants are made up of water!! In fact some tender annuals are 90% water. When water freezes it expands meaning inside a plant when water freezes it expands and shatters cell walls eventually killing a plant hence the title “KILLING FROST!”

Frost Warning – What to do!!
There are lots of variables when it comes to frost however if a frost warning looms in your area and you have planted you need to protect your plants.

Covering:
Frost settles and falls covering a plant will protect them from frost. When covering I recommend using a bed sheet or tarp. When covering insure a space between the foliage and the covering layer, this area of air will help to insulate the plant.

NOTE: FROST WILL TRAVEL THRU PLASTIC…NEVER ALLOWS PLASTIC TO TOUCH FOLIAGE!!
Empty pots work well to cover plants …flip them upside down and cover away!!

Bring them in or under?
If you can bring potted plants and hanging baskets in or at least place underneath a covered porch close to a wall grouped together and cover!!

Soak your garden!
A good soaking will help to protect plants! Often you will notice farmers irrigating fields the morning of hard frosts.

Note: this can be dangerous and if it’s too cold can cause more harm than help!!

For more info go to this great article from Farmer’s Almanac:
http://www.farmersalmanac.com/home-garden/2008/09/22/a-gardeners-guide-to-frost/ http://ow.ly/kX0Nt

At this time of year with grubs, snow mold, and just general damage to lawns I receive several emails asking “how much sod do I need for …space?” Well with the answer here is some great info from one of Ontario’s best Sod Growers Zander Sod www.zandersod.com

HOW MUCH??

Zander Sod is sold by the 9 square foot roll or 1 square yard. Measure your lawn area (length x width = sq. ft., divide by 9 = sq. yards) to determine the amount of sod you will need. Example: 12′ x 30′ = 360 ft. 360 / 9 = 40 square yards of sod or 40 rolls.

Call Zander Sod 1-877-727-2100 if your require assistance with measuring for your project.
After Sod Installation

How Do I Prepare For Sod?

Step 1: Prepare the area to be sodded by working and loosening the top 10-15 cm of soil. Remove any debris and lumps. Analyze soil for consistency. Soil additives/amendments, such as peat moss can be obtained from your local garden centre. Be sure that the grade has water running away from the buildings, toward ditches. If additional soil is needed, order a shredded sandy-loam from your local supplier.

Hint: Lightly rolling the area will clearly show the grade (any depressions) and allow any corrections.

Step 2: Apply a high phosphorous, slow release fertilizer, such as 10-20-5 at 4kg per 100 square metre to ensure optimum fertility for the root zone.

Step 3: Rake in fertilizer to a depth of 5-10cm.

How Do I Install It?

Step 4: Water prepared area lightly to settle soil and provide a moist base for turf. This will also cool the soil reducing stress on the roots of the fresh sod, (most important during hot summer days.)

Step 5: Install turf immediate after delivery. IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT ALL THE SOD BE UNROLLED WITHIN 24 HOUR S OF HARVEST. Have sufficient watering equipment available and ready.

Step 6: Begin unrolling turf along the longest straight line, such as a driveway, butting all joints tightly together without overlapping. Raking ahead may be necessary to remove tractor and foot marks. Next continue to lay sod along perimeter of either end. Then lay sod in brick work fashion. As you complete one area, start watering immediately (within 15 minutes.) This will minimize the stress on the thousands of turfgrass plants. Apply at least 2-3 cm (1 inch) of water using a sprinkler for even distribution (enough that when a corner of an installed roll is lifted moisture has soaked through the roots and is being absorbed by the topsoil.)

Hint: Edges along asphalt and concrete, as well as areas on top of embankments and mounds, will require more water.

Step 7: After installing the turf, roll the entire area to improve the turf to soil contact and to remove any air pockets.

Step 8: Enjoy your new ZANDER SOD.

Watering Schedule, Mowing and Maintenance

The newly installed turf will need to be watered daily for the first week. During the second week, every second day is usually sufficient. The quantity will depend on temperature, time of year, and soil conditions. The sod should not get so dry as to discolor or curl on edges, nor should it be so wet as to be under water or mushy for any length of time.

Your new ZANDER SOD should need mowing in 7-10 days. It is important not to let the grass plant get too long. When mowing, never remove more that 1/3 of the plant. Ideal cutting height is 4-7 cm (1½ – 2½”). If using a gas powered mower, keep motor idling the first time or two, so as not to pull turf up off the ground. BE SURE THAT YOUR MOWER IS SHARP FOR A NICE CLEAN CUT.

Basil
Plant near: most garden crops
Keep away from: rue
Comments: improves the flavor and growth of garden crops, especially tomatoes and lettuce. Repels mosquitoes.

Beans, Bush
Plant near: beets, cabbage, carrots, catnip, cauliflower, corn, cucumbers, marigolds, potatoes, savory, strawberries
Keep away from: fennel, garlic, leeks, onions, shallots
Comments: potatoes and marigolds repel Mexican bean beetles. Catnip repels flea beetles.

Beans, Pole
Plant near: corn, marigolds, potatoes, radishes
Keep away from: beets, garlic, kohlrabi, leeks, onions, shallots
Comments: same as for bush beans.

Beets
Plant near: broccoli, brussels sprouts, bush beans, cabbage, cauliflower, chard, kohlrabi, onions
Keep away from: charlock, field mustard, pole beans
Comments:

Borage
Plant near: squash, strawberries, tomatoes
Keep away from:
Comments: repels tomato worms. Improves flavor and growth of companions.

Broccoli and Brussels Sprouts
Plant near: beets, buckwheat, calendula, carrots, chamomile, dill, hyssop, marigolds, mints, nasturtiums, onions, rosemary, sage, thyme, wormwood.
Keep away from: strawberries
Comments: marigolds repel cabbage moths. Nasturtiums repel aphids.

Cabbage and Cauliflower
Plant near: broccoli, brussels sprouts, celery, chard, spinach, tomatoes.
Keep away from: strawberries
Comments: tomatoes and celery repel cabbage worms.

Cantaloupe
Plant near: corn
Keep away from:
Comments:

Carrots
Plant near: cabbage, chives, early potatoes, leeks, lettuce, onions, peas, radishes, rosemary, sage, salsify, wormwood.
Keep away from:
Comments: onions, leeks, and wormwood repel carrot flies

Chives
Plant near: apples, berries, carrots, grapes, peas, roses, tomatoes.
Keep away from:
Comments: Improves flavor and growth of companions. Deters aphids and Japanese beetles.

Corn
Plant near: beans, cucumbers, early potatoes, melons, peas, pumpkins, soybeans, squash.
Keep away from:
Comments: soybeans deter chinch bugs.
Cucumbers
Plant near: beans, cabbage, corn, early potatoes, radishes, sunflowers.
Keep away from: late potatoes
Comments: Radishes deter cucumber beetles. Cucumbers encourage blight in late potatoes.

Dill
Plant near: broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, lettuce, onions
Keep away from: carrots
Comments: Improves flavor and growth of cabbage family plants.

Eggplant
Plant near: green beans, peppers, potatoes, tomatoes
Keep away from:
Comments: green beans deter Colorado potato beetles.
Plant near: cabbage, cane fruits, fruit trees, roses, tomatoes
Keep away from: peas, beans
Comments: deters Japanese beetles and aphids. A garlic oil spray deters onion flies, aphids, and ermine moths. A garlic tea helps repel late potato blight.

Kale
Plant near: aromatic herbs, buckwheat, cabbage family, marigolds, nasturtiums
Keep away from: pole beans, strawberries
Comments:

Kohlrabi
Plant near: cabbage/cauliflower companions (except tomatoes)
Keep away from: fennel, pole beans, tomatoes
Comments: kohlrabi stunts tomatoes

Lettuce
Plant near: beets, carrotsparsnips, radishes, strawberries
Keep away from: cabbage family
Comments: lettuce tenderizes summer radishes.

Marigolds
Plant near: all garden crops
Keep away from:
Comments: stimulates vegetable growth and deters bean beetles, aphids, potato bugs, squash bugs, nematodes, and maggots.

Marjoram
Plant near: all garden crops
Keep away from:
Comments: stimulates vegetable growth.

Nasturtiums
Plant near: apples, beans, cabbage family, greenhouse crops, potatoes, pumpkins, radishes, squash
Keep away from:
Comments: repels aphids, potato bugs, squash bugs, striped pumpkin beetles, and Mexican bean beetles and destroys white flies in greenhouses.

Onions
Plant near: beets, cabbage family, carrots, chamomile, lettuce, parsnips
Keep away from: beans, peas
Comments: deters most pests, especially maggots.

Oregano
Plant near: all garden crops
Keep away from:
Comments: deters many insect pests.

Parsley
Plant near: corn, roses, tomatoes
Keep away from:
Comments:

Parsnips
Plant near: onions, radishes, wormwood
Keep away from:
Comments: onions and wormwood help keep root maggots from parsnips.

Peas
Plant near: beans, carrots, corn, cucumbers, early potatoes, radishes, turnips
Keep away from: garlic leeks, onions, shallots
Comments:

Peppers
Plant near: basil, carrots, eggplant, onions, parsley, tomatoes
Keep away from: fennel, kohlrabi
Comments:

Potatoes
Plant near: basil, beans, cabbage family, corn, eggplant, flax, hemp, marigolds, peas, squash
Keep away from: apples, birch, cherries, cucumbers, pumpkins, raspberries, sunflowers, tomatoes, walnuts
Comments: hemp deters phytophthora infestans. Basil deters potato beetles. Marigolds (dug into crop soil) deter nematodes.

Radishes
Plant near: chervil, cucumbers, lettuce, melons, peas, nasturtiums, root crops
Keep away from: hyssop
Comments: radishes deter cucumber beetles. Chervil makes radishes hot. Lettuce helps make radishes tender. Nasturtiums improve radishes’ flavor.

Rosemary
Plant near: beans, cabbage, carrots
Keep away from:
Comments: repels bean beetles, cabbage moths, and carrot flies.

Sage
Plant near: cabbage family, carrots, tomatoes
Keep away from: cucumbers
Comments: deters cabbage moths and carrot flies. Invigorates tomato plants.

Spinach
Plant near: celery, cauliflower, eggplant, strawberries
Keep away from:
Comments:

Strawberries
Plant near: borage, bush beans, lettuce, pyrethrum, spinach
Keep away from: cabbage family
Comments:

Sunflowers
Plant near: cucumbers
Keep away from: potatoes
Comments: can provide a trellis and shelter for shade-loving cucumbers.

Swiss Chard
Plant near: bush beans, kohlrabi, onions
Keep away from: pole beans
Comments:

Tarragon
Plant near: all garden crops
Keep away from:
Comments: improves vegetables’ flavor and growth.

Thyme
Plant near: all garden crops
Keep away from:
Comments: deters cabbage moths.

Tomatoes
Plant near: asparagus, basil, cabbage family, carrots, gooseberries, mustard, parsley, onions, rosemary, sage, stinging nettles
Keep away from: fennel, kohlrabi, potatoes, walnuts
Comments:

Source: http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/companion-planting-guide-zmaz81mjzraw.aspx?PageId=3#axzz2ShNHkezr

CONTROLLING DANDELIONS:
1. PREVENT DANDELION SEED FROM TAKING GROUND IN YOUR LAWN: a) In early spring apply corn gluten to coat weed seeds and suppress germination. Note this has to happen before soil temperature warm and before weed seeds germinate. Early Spring is as soon as snow leaves us in early April.
2. CUT YOUR LAWN RIGHT: Cutting height is important, I recommend a cutting height of lawn at a height of 2 ½ to 3 inches. The longer height shades weeds seeds and also maintains moisture in your lawn. A healthy lawn and reducing the amount of light weeds seeds gets equals less Dandelions. Most important if you have dandelions cut your lawn before dandelions go into flower or set seed.
3. DIG THEM: Sure there are numerous products on the market that claim to destroy dandelions however the only true way to rid your lawn of a dandelion is removing it yourself. The best time to remove a dandelion is after a rain (they come out easier) and always insure you get the entire plant especially their large taproot. If you break the root and leave some behind..presto a larger healthier dandelion will grow.
4. OVERSEED AND FERTILIZE: Make your lawn the bully. Overseeding and fertilizing your lawn will strengthen and create a thicker turf meaning no room for Dandelions to grow. The thicker the lawn the less space for weeds to find root in it!!
CAN’T BEAT THEM EAT THEM: Dandelion greens are amazing!! My family has been eating them for generations. According to incrediblesmoothies.com here are 10 benefits of Dandelions:
#1 – High in Calcium: Dandelion greens are loaded with calcium. Just one cup of chopped dandelion greens has 103 milligrams (10% of the recommended daily value) of calcium! That’s slightly more than kale! Add two to three cups of dandelion to a smoothie with calcium-rich fruits like orange, kiwi, fig or papaya and you’ll have a green smoothie that has more calcium than any dairy product!
#2 – Rich in Iron: Next to fresh parsley, dandelion greens have high iron content. One cup contains 1.7 milligrams of iron.
#3 – Low Calories: Like all leafy greens, dandelions are low in calories. One cup of chopped dandelion greens has only 25 calories. While leafy greens are a low calorie food, I actually prefer to use dandelions because they have more calories than other greens. Since I try to get as many calories as I can into my morning smoothies, I add up to 4 cups of dandelion which adds 100 calories of nutrient-rich food!
#4 – Loaded With Antioxidants: Dandelion greens are high in vitamin A in the form of antioxidant carotenoid (beta-carotene) and vitamin C. Vitamin C also helps facilitate iron absorption.
#5 – The Ultimate Detox & Cleansing Green: If your goal is detoxification and cleansing, dandelion greens should be the ones you use in green smoothies! They are said to help cleanse the liver and many detox recipes call for them.
#6 – Lots of Minerals: Dandelion greens are rich in minerals. Besides calcium and iron, they are a good source of copper (10% RDA), manganese (8% RDA), phosphorus (5% RDA), potassium (5% RDA) and magnesium (5% RDA).
#7 – 14% Protein: Dandelion greens have more protein per serving than spinach. The greens themselves are 14% protein and contain all essential amino acids so it’s a complete protein. One chopped cup contains 1.5 grams of protein.
#8 – Multivitamin Green: Besides vitamin A as beta-carotene (186% RDA) and vitamin C (21% RDA), each cup of chopped dandelion greens are also good sources of vitamins B1 (9% RDA), B2 (11% RDA) and B6 (11% RDA), vitamin E (13% RDA) and especially abundant in vitamin K (357% RDA).
#10 – Health Benefits of Dandelion Greens: The nutrients in dandelion greens may help reduce the risk of cancer, multiple sclerosis, cataracts, age-related macular degeneration and stroke. Dandelion contains anti-inflammatory properties which may provide benefit to those with asthma and other inflammatory diseases.

NOTE: Just Dandelion greens can be purchased at local purveyors of produce (grocery store) however if you are harvesting your own please insure they are clean of any furry friends bi-products (urine etc).

DANDELIONS…the good and the bad…all depend on how you look at them!!

How to take care of grubs!

What are grubs?

Grubs are the larvae stage of a beetle and or chafer.  In Ontario most likely a June or Japanese beetle!!

Are they harmful?

Grubs are not harmful to humans but they do destroy our lawns by eating the fibrous roots of grass type plants during the growing season.   Damage is more noticeable later on during summer months during dry periods when lawns slow and growth and struggle to survive.  At this time you may notice brown patches.

The adult stage of grubs…beetles and chafers are harmful to gardens as they eat almost everything in sight including trees, flowering shrubs, annuals, perennials and vegetables. 

Skunks, Raccoons, Moles tearing up your lawn?

The most common way people discover they have grubs is in early spring when rodents, and fuzz friends tear up lawns in search of them.  Grubs are a rich source of protein for or furry friends including skunks, raccoons, moles and feathered friends too!  In fact these guys are taking care of your grub population but the problem is they are destroying your lawn at the same time!

How do you stop the digging and tunneling??

You need to discourage them!  By smell…apply bloodmeal (http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/2/OutdoorLiving/Garden-Care/GardenFertilizers/PRD~0592156P/CIL+Blood+Meal,+1.3-kg.jsp?locale=en) to areas  …skunks, raccoons, and moles hate the smell.  Bloodmeal needs to be reapplied after rain.  For permanent control you need to get rid of the grubs!!

Controlling Grubs:

Ontario’s Cosmetic Pesticide limits options for grub control.  Previous to the ban a chemical product called Merit was used but now Nematodes are one of the only options.  Nematodes are microscopic organisms that are naturally occurring and present in the soil. They are harmless to wildlife, pets and humans so you may use your lawn immediately after applying. Nematodes die off when the grub population in your soil is reduced.

Nematodes are best used as a preventative application to control newly hatched larvae so the best time to apply them is in late August to early October. They infect grubs within 2 days of application and kill them within 14 days. Nematodes will not kill the entire grub population in your lawn, but will reduce it drastically.

NOTE: NEMATODES NEED TO BE REFRIDGEATED

Nematode application

It is ideal to apply Nematodes from the end of August to October.

1. Nematodes should be applied to very moist soil (the will die if applied to dry soil). It is recommended that you water your lawn well BEFORE applying nematodes. This also drives the grubs closer to the surface which makes it easier for the nematodes to reach them.
2. Nematodes should not be applied on bright sunny days, as UV light will kill them. It is recommended that you apply them early or late in the day, or on an overcast day. Ideally, apply the Nematodes on a rainy day, as it will aid in the watering in of the Nematodes.
3. Nematodes should be sprayed into the lawn using a sprayer designed specifically for nematode application. For the nematodes to work effectively, it is essential to water the soil as soon as possible as the water helps them to penetrate further into the soil, where the grubs live. 

Note: Having your lawn aerated before applying nematodes will aid in the movement of the grubs into the root zone of your lawn.

YOUR CHECKLIST:

EARLY SPRING:

1.        Monitor for grub damage

2.       Repair damaged areas

3.       Aerate

4.       Level, top-dress with soil and over seed areas damaged by raccoons, skunks or moles. 

5.       Keep Moist.

SUMMER: 

1.       Apply Nematodes

EARLY FALL:

1.        Apply Nematodes

2.       Overseed

NOTE:  I also recommend Early Spring, Summer and Fall Fertilizing of lawn for optimal health. My Fav is CIL GOLFGREEN!!

Cold nights and warm days are needed to produce this sweet surprise, but record warmth in March stopped the flow of sap as maple trees quickly went into bud.

In fact many in the industry are saying this is the worst maple syrup season they have ever seen. The Ontario Maple Syrup Producers Association says producers will have a multi-million-dollar loss due to output that’s down at least 50% in parts of the province.

The good news is most feel this season shortage of sap will not significantly impact on the price as previous maple syrup seasons have produced ample supply. More good news is research from the Department of Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences at the University of Rhode Island found a total of 54 antioxidants in maple syrup, five of which were new compounds with several of them reported to have anti-cancer, anti-diabetic and anti-bacterial properties.

With this great news we must remind ourselves that maple syrup is sugar-laden, making blueberries or other antioxidant-rich fruits better choices for healthy eating.

But — there’s no denying maple syrup is one of the best natural sweeteners. On top of pancakes or used as a glaze on foods like pork, chicken, duck, salmon or trout, maple syrup brings practically anything from drab to fab in moments.

On root vegetables maple syrup helps enhance their natural sugars and in sauces and dressings the sweet taste of spring is easily added.

On twitter @shalsroy claims the best way to enjoy maple syrup is through a combination of buttermilk and green onion placed on top of a salad of fresh Ontario hydroponic Boston lettuce.

In salads, mains, desserts — maple syrup’s the way to go!

Frank Ferragine is the weather and gardening specialist for Breakfast Television Toronto on Citytv, and appears regularly on CityLine. His first book, Frankie Flowers Get Growing (HarperCollins) is now available. Follow Frank on twitter @frankferragine or email frankieflowers@citytv.com.

SWEET POTATO, MAPLE AND PECAN TARTS

These are somewhere between a butter tart and pumpkin pie but with a hint of maple syrup and toasted pecans — mmm good! Recipe courtesy of Foodland Ontario. (Foodland.gov.on.ca.)

1 medium sweet potato, about 12 oz (375 g)
2 Tbsp. (30 ml) butter, melted
2 eggs
1 cup (250 ml) maple syrup
1/2 tsp. (2 ml) vanilla
Pinch salt
24 3-inch (8 cm) frozen tart shells, thawed
1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped toasted pecans

Scrub sweet potato and trim off ends. Pierce with small knife in several places; microwave at High for 6 to 8 minutes or until tender, turning over halfway through. Let cool enough to handle; remove skin and mash with fork until smooth. Measure 1 cup (250 ml) and place in bowl. Whisk in butter, eggs, maple syrup, vanilla and salt until smooth.

Bake tart shells on baking sheet, in batches if necessary, in 375F (190C) oven for 5 minutes. Remove from oven. Sprinkle pecans among partially baked shells, gently pushing down any puffed-up pastry. Divide sweet potato mixture among shells. Bake for 20 to 24 minutes or until filling is slightly puffed, almost set and pastry is lightly golden. Let cool on rack.

TIP: Make filling in 4-cup (1 L) glass measuring cup and it will be easy to pour into tart shells.
Yield: Makes 24 tarts.

1. Eyes are bigger than experience and needs:  When starting out in gardening my recommendation is to start small and gain some confidence.  Large areas of gardens may look great for the first little while but if you don’t have the time or the experience the end results will turn into frustrations and a waste of $$$.
2. Selecting the wrong plants!!  The ultimate goal is finding the right plant for the right place.  When you do so plants will grow with ease and if perennial will come back year after year with minimal care.   If you just go out and choose a plant because it looks good…the end result could be deadly!!
3. Buying in bloom:  Ok you’ve checked to see that your soil type and light requirements match however you select the plant that is in full bloom at the garden centre.  I always say in the world of plants look for bud not bloom and sometimes as with marigolds I suggest pulling off all the blooms at planting so the Marigold can focus on its roots for establishment.
4. Wrong soil:  That $1.99 bag may look like a good deal but if used in a container will kill your plants (from root rot).  For pots choose soils formulated for containers or potting soil.  However remember most container and potting soils are soilless mixes meaning you need to fertilize.
5. You don’t ask questions:  Everyone at one point in their life was a novice gardener.  There are no bad questions.  If you don’t know the difference between an annual and perennial ask!!  Find a knowledge friend or just a good garden centre to help guide your shopping decisions.  My book “Get Growing” is perfect for building your garden confidence.